The Black House
The Black House (Baan Si Dum in Thai) – sometimes mis-called the Black Temple – is an entire complex that includes many “houses” just north of Chiang Rai. Artist Thawan Duchanee has spent many years building and improving the site – which happens to be his estate – and is no where near complete. On our most recent visit, we even saw the quiet artist monitoring the work of a craftsman. Having already visited the well-known White Temple, we recommend you head north to see the Black House. Some might say the Black House is the complete opposite of the White Temple. They would be right. While the White Temple is quite literally white, full of glimmer and gaudiness, the Black House is dark, quiet, and has an organic feeling. By organic, we mean the entire complex is made of wood, dead animals, and landscaped in a very calming way. Where you might have to endure crowds at the White Temple, the Black House is relatively tourist-free and peaceful. The Black House is open from 9am to 12pm and from 1pm to 5pm every day of the week, except when they host special events.
Directions:
- Head north toward Mae Sai on Highway 1.
- From the The Great Memorial for King Mengrai in the city of Chiang Rai, go approximately 10.2 kilometers.
- You’ll see the first sign on the left for the Black House after about 8.2 kilometers (just before the stop light for Chiangrai Rajabhat University). From that stop light, you have exactly 2 kilometers to go before your turn.
- In exactly 2 km, turn left onto the small soi (road). There used to be a sign, but we’re told it’s been removed.
- Go a little less than half a kilometer along this soi and turn left onto another soi. You’ll see a red art gallery on your right.
- Go to what looks like the end of the road and you’ll be there! Park in the lot on the right.
